Day 1: Icherisheher and the seaside

Start inside the walled Old City (Icherisheher), where the Maiden Tower and the Shirvanshahs' Palace sit a short walk apart along cobblestone lanes.

In the afternoon, step outside the walls onto Baku Boulevard for a slow walk along the Caspian shoreline before the city lights come on.

Day 2: Flame Towers and modern Baku

Ride the funicular up toward the Flame Towers for the best view over the bay, then work back down through Fountain Square and Nizami Street.

Round out the day with the Carpet Museum, whose building alone - shaped like a rolled carpet - is worth the visit.

Day 3: a half-day trip beyond the city

Gobustan's ancient rock carvings and nearby mud volcanoes make an easy half-day trip, or choose the Absheron peninsula for the Ateshgah Fire Temple and the burning hillside of Yanar Dag.

Either option leaves the afternoon free for a last walk or some shopping before an evening flight.

ZEVA tips

• The metro is the fastest way between the Old City and the modern center.
• Bring comfortable shoes - Icherisheher's lanes are all cobblestone.
• Arrange the Gobustan or Absheron day trip with a private guide and driver in advance.